Health Check

Rats are hardy creatures and will often soldier on when they're ill or in pain, but they suffer from many of the diseases and ailments that we suffer from. Keep a close eye on your rat and look out for any symptoms of illness or changes in his behaviour. The more you handle your rat, the quicker you will be at spotting any illness or disease. The symptom check is only meant as a guideline, and any worries you have about your rat's health should be dealt with by a qualified vet as soon as possible. Don't take chances with your rat's health.

No one at Rat Planet is qualified to offer veterinary advice, apart from experience, and any worries you have about your rat's health should be discussed with a qualified veterinarian as early as possible. Early treatment can often make all the difference.

Many thanks to Debbie Ducommun of The Rat Fan Club, whose Health Care booklet is always on hand at Rat Planet. You can buy a copy from The Rat Fan Club or Acrorats

**Symptom Chart**
Breathing problems, wheezing, gasping, rushing around	respiratory disease, heart disease, heat stroke
Blue tinge	lack of oxygen due to respiratory failure, heart disease
Co-ordination, lack of	pituitary tumour, stroke, kidney or liver failure
Drinking increased	kidney disease, diabetes
Feet - sores	ulcerative pododermatitis (bumblefoot)
Hair loss, bald patches	barbering, parasites, hormone imbalance, ageing
Head tilt, circling	inner ear infection, pituitary tumour, stroke
Lumps	abscess, tumour
Paralysis	spinal nerve degeneration, stroke, pituitary tumour
Scratching (excessive)	dietary, allergy, parasites, skin infection
Seizures	pituitary tumour, brain tumour, epilepsy, diet
Sneezing	allergy, respiratory disease
Urine - blood in, increased urination	urinary infection, kidney disease, diabetes, parasites
Weight loss	kidney disease, spinal nerve degeneration, diabetes, teeth or mouth problems, heart disease

If your rat is sneezing but doesn't have any other symptoms, it could be that he is allergic to something in the atmosphere. Dust, aerosols, deodorant, perfume, cigarette smoke, wood based litter or bedding can all cause allergic reactions. It's often impossible to discover the exact cause but the first thing you should do is change wood based litter to a paper product. Cedar and pine litters are toxic and should never be used, and the wood based litters can cause sneezing and lead to respiratory problems. Paper based cat litters are a much better choice, and are virtually dust free. Don't be tempted to use any of the scented litters, which may disguise smells but can lead to respiratory and skin problems. Make sure than any bedding and litter is changed regularly and kept clean and dry. Ammonia arising from wet or soiled bedding can irritate the respiratory tract and cause sneezing and respiratory disease. Other allergies can arise from a diet which is too high in protein or sugar. Too much protein can cause hot spots and skin irritation. The rat scratches and sores and scabs form. If you think this could be the problem, feed your rat on a bland diet of cooked brown rice with a few vegetables for a few days. If the problem subsides, star feeding your rat a balanced low protein diet. If there is excessive scratching, it may be a case of eczema or dermatitis, which can be treated with a steroid, hydrocortisone cream, or prednisole. If your rat doesn't respond to treatments for mites or eczema, it could be that he has a fungal infection.

Barbering is not strictly speaking an illness or condition. It is over grooming by a rat, either on itself or another rat. It is not something to worry about particularly, but you may want to look at the rat's environment and make sure that it is not due to boredom or anxiety. If the bald patches are on the face, neck or shoulders, it will probably be another rat doing the barbering. If the patches are on the front legs or stomach, it is probably self-barbering.

Although diabetes is quite rare in pet rats, it is not unheard of. The first signs will be increased drinking and a molasses type smell from the urine, which is due to the excess sugar. Weight loss or a failure to gain weight and size may also be apparent. I am not aware of any treatment for diabetes in rats, apart from regular insulin and a regulated diet.

Rats are very prone to overheating and any excess heat is lost through their tail. If your rat's tail is hot, your rat is overheating and you whould cool him down by submerging him in cool water (be careful to keep his head above water). Try to get some fluids inside her, particularly some water with a little salt and sugar added. If your rat shows signs of lethargy, shock or unconsciousness you should get him to a vet immediately!

Hot weather means hot rats, and you should keep your rat out of direct sunlight and away from direct heat sources (fires, radiators etc.) at all times. You could place bottles of ice cubes around the nest, or fill bottles with water and freeze. Leave tops off bottles when freezing and use glass not plastic. Plastic will be chewed through very quickly. Don't use the blue cooler bottles you pack your cool box with, which contain chemicals and are toxic. Cover the nest area with a throw to keep cool and dark. A cat litter tray, filled to around 2cm with cool water, can be used as a paddling pool on a hot day. Add some frozen peas or corn and let your rats fish for them. Frozen fruit can be offered, which is a rat's version of ice lollies!

Heart disease often accompanies respiratory infections and the symptoms are very similar. Wheezing, breathing problems, weakness and lack of appetite. There may also be a blue tinge to the rat's claws and tail, which is due to lack of oxygen and poor circulation. A low salt diet is recommended, and you could add some flax oil to the diet. There are a number of medications that may be prescribed, and a rat with heart disease can live happily for many months with early treatment. Draco's heart conditions was controlled very effectively with Lanoxin, although this may not be suitalbe for all heart disease. Check with your vet before giving any medication to your rat.

Kidney disease and infection is not uncommon in rats, and the first signs may be increased drinking and blood in the urine. The infection can be treated successfully with antibiotics. Kidney degeneration often occurs in the older rat, especially uncastrated males. The symptoms are similar to kidney infection and you may also see some stiff yellow skin on the rat's back. The rat should be fed a low salt diet with plenty of fresh foods and increased fluids.

Rats can host three types of external parasite - mites, fleas and lice, and all are highly contagious. If you suspect your rat has a problem with parasites, check his fur thoroughly. Fleas are quite easy to spot, and are dark in colour. If you have a cat or dog which has fleas, it is very possible that your rat may catch them. Comb your rat's fur with a flea comb and shake it out onto some white paper. If you spot anything you think may be a flea dropping, dab some warm water on them and watch to see if they disolve and turn red. Flea droppings are mainly blood. Lice are small, light brown coloured, and are commonly found on the back of the neck and shoulders. Mites also cause itching and scabs, and are commonly found on the neck, shoulders and face. The most effective treatment for external parasites is Ivermecin. Your vet may offer a course of injections, but it is far safer to treat the infestation with a topical cream or paste. Ivermectin, given intraveinously, can cause fatal bleeding. Not only do you need to treat all of your rats, but you need to clean the cage, accessories and surrounding areas thoroughly. You may be able to prevent an infestation by hanging a fly killer block (Vapona) near the cage, but well out of reach of your rats. If you see any symptoms of illness in your rats, remove the block right away. Mites and fleas may enter the rattery via straw or hay, although it is far more likely to be passed on from rat to rat. Always check any new rats before you introduce them, and it's a good idea to quarantine them for at least two weeks to prevent any infection or infestation.

Murine Mycoplasmosis is the cause of respiratory disease in mice and rats, and is the commonest ailment, and cause of death, in pet rats. The organism Mycoplasma pulmonis is inherent in all rats and mice, and is passed on by the mother during birth or by aerosols from rat to rat. It cannot be transmitted to other species or contracted from other species. It is a primitive wall-less bacteria, which makes it very difficult to fight with antibiotics.

Mycoplasma is a Gram negative aerobic bacteria, which determines the type of antibiotics used to treat it. It is very often a chronic disease, only causing serious problems in the very young or very old, or if the immune system is compromised. Mycoplasma may accompany another bacterial infection, such as the Sendai virus, and a weakened immune system may yield to the infections. Mycoplasma rarely affects rats under 3 months of age as it begins to colonise the respiratory tract.

Mycoplasma pulmonis is very contagious and incurable, although antibiotic treatment can help to minimise the effects. The infection may appear to subside and then return at a later date. If a rat shows symptoms of mycoplasma but otherwise appears healthy, active and is eating and drinking, it will almost certainly be an infection of the upper respiratory tract. If the rat appears ill and lethargic, with no interest in food or drink, the infection may have reached the lower respiratory tract and will be far more serious.

Symptoms: Any sound a rat makes whilst breathing is not normal and would probably be a symptom of Mysoplasma. Other symptoms include constant sneezing and a head tilt. Rats do sneeze now and then and it could be a reaction to dust in the air, wood based litter or dirty bedding. If the sneezing is continuous, and it responds to antibiotics, it is more than likely a Myco infection. Upper respiratory tract infections show signs of rhinitis (a cold), sinusitis, inner ear infection, and generally noisy or rattling breathing. A lower respiratory tract infection ranges from bronchitis to pneumonia. It is not wise to ignore any of the symptoms of mycoplasma, and early treatment can make all the difference.

If a rat shows signs of Mycoplasma it doesn't necessarily mean a death sentence, and many rats go on to live full and happy lives despite the symptoms. Others may need a course of antibiotics from time to time if the symptoms progress. Some antibiotics are not effective against Mycoplasma but are useful to combat the other infections which often accompany it. Some are effective against Mycoplasma, and these include: baytril (rats can build up a resistance to this) tiamutin (tastes like battery acid!) gentamycin, tetracycline, tylosin, doxycycline (don't give milk or dairy products with this. Is more effective given with baytril) and engamycin. Frusomide is a diaretic which can help reduce fluid in the lungs. Dexafort, a steroid anti-inflammatory usually given by injection, can also achieve good results and allow your rat some more quality time. None of these medications will cure mycoplasma, but may reduce the severity of the symptoms and help prevent lung damage. Always check with your vet before giving your rat any medication.

As I have mentioned many times, you can't cure Mycoplasma, but there are steps you can take to try and prevent a full-blown Myco infection. Make sure that the cage, litter and bedding is kept clean and dry. Ammonia arising from urine in the litter or bedding irritates the respiratory tract and is a predisposing factor in Mycoplasma infections. Keep the cage well ventilated and out of drafts. Never use cedar or pine litter. In fact, I would suggest that you stay away from wood based litters altogether. There are many paper based litters available, which are a far better option. These include - Smart Cat, Bio-cat-olet (in the UK) and Care-Fresh, Sani-chips or aspen (in the USA) Feed your rats on a low fat, healthy, balanced diet. Avoid overcrowding, and never breed from infected rats. Most rats sold in pet stores are from intensive breeding and overcrowded conditions, so always look for a healthy, alert rat. You can help build up your rat's immune system with the herbal remedy Echinacea. A few drops in the food or water, flavoured with honey or juice (it's very bitter) given on week on and one week off. There is no substitute, however, for a healthy, balanced diet and a clean environment.

If your rat is scratching excessively and you see spots or scabs, it could be a protein allergy (see Allergy), mites or fleas (see Parasites) If the problem does not subside with a change of diet or with the use of Ivermectin, it could be eczema or dermatitis. These conditions can be treated with a steroid, a hydrocortisone cream, or prednisole. If these still don't stop the itching, check for a fungal infection. These can be treated but may take a few months to respond, during which time you should give your rat a diet very low in sugar, which actually feeds the fungus. Another problem could be dry skin or dandruff, which could be due to poor diet.

Some degeneration of the spinal nerve is not uncommon in older male rats, and not unheard of in older females. As the hind quarters become weakened, the rat may not be able to sit up and hold his food in his hands to eat. The back legs become weakened and walking, climbing and running become very difficult. As the degeneration progresses the rat may begin dragging his hind quarters around. This condition is incurable and may progress to total paralysis from the waist down. But this is not the end, and no reason to have the rat put to sleep. There are many things you can do to help make life easier for the disabled rat and if the quality of life is good he may live happily with his problem. Safety is one thing you should look at, and remove any high perches or walkways to prevent accidents. Make sure that all bowls and bottles are easily accessible, and keep the nest and litter clean. You could construct a shallow ramp to make access to the cage easier and keep all living quarters on one level. Feeding may become a problem and difficulties may arise for a rat trying to feed himself. You could feed him from your hand or offer softer foods in a bowl. Many baby foods are very palatable, and a baby soy milk formula is almost a complete food in itself. A rat that can't hold food in his hands may enjoy softer foods from a shallow bowl. He may not be able to scratch himself without the use of his back legs, or sit up to wash himself. You can do that for him. A damp washcloth can be used to stroke him, which will keep him clean and give you the opportunity for a snuggle, and a gentle rub with an old toothbrush can be used for scratching. Bedding should be kept dry to prevent urine burning. You could construct a litter tray with only 3 sides out of a cardboard box lined with sticky back plastic, so that he can use the litter himself. Self respect is so very important to a disabled rat, and you can help by making things easier for him to keep himself clean.

Strokes are caused by a cerebral haemorrhage or blood clot on the brain, or by a brain tumour. The first sign may be paralysis, usually down one side, which may right itself in time. The rat may also experience convulsions and difficulty breathing. Rats often recover from a stroke but may retain some paralysis. Never ignore symptoms of a stroke as early treatment with steroids can make all the difference to recovery. You may need to help your rat wash and groom himself after a stroke, and he may need help with feeding. You can also help recovery by massaging the paralysed limbs or moving them for your rat to keep the blood flow.

Tumours are very common in female rats, especially mammary tumours, so make a regular check for lumps and bumps, especially around the tummy, armpits and groin. The majority of tumours are benign and surgery is simpler the smaller the lump.If your can move the lump around and it doesn't feel like it's attached to any underlying muscle, it's likely to be a benign tumour. Benign tumours can grow to quite a size and, if not removed, and they can cause problems with mobility. Malignant tumours must be treated early for the best results, although they often reappear. Tamoxifen is a drug used to treat breast cancer in humans, and has had much success in rats. It is certainly worth talking to your vet about treatment with this drug. Pituitary tumours are the third most common cause of death in female rats, and are found at the base of the brain. As the tumour grows it causes pressure on the brain and neurologic symptoms will appear. Lack of coordination and paralysis are the first symptoms, and rats often show a very distinctive stiffness of the legs. They will hold the legs out stiffly and will not be able to bend them. A head tilt or circling motion is another common symptom, which may also indicate an inner ear infection. Treatment is possible, and a course of prednisole and antibiotics may relieve the pressure on the brain, giving the rat a few weeks of reasonable quality life. Sadly, pituitary tumours are not curable, although some quality of life can be maintained with the use of certain medication. We've found that Prednisolone (Prednisole) can be useful in these circumstances. Always check with your vet before giving your rat any medication.

Bumblefoot (Ulcerative pododermatitis) is a nasty bacterial infection commonly found on the heels of a rat's back feet and is extremely difficult to cure. It is often caused by wire flooring, and you should never keep your rats on wire floors. If you cannot remove the floor, cover it with vinyl, cardboard, plastic or wood. Cardboard and wood can be covered with sticky back plastic for easy cleaning and to prevent it becoming wet and smelly. Bumbles usually start as a red swelling on the back heels, which may break open and form crusty scabs. Antibiotics are not very successful at treating the bumbles. There is, however, a fairly effective treatment called Blue Kote in the USA, and a similar version called Purple Lotion in the UK. It is a wound medication for horses and is well named - it stains very strongly. Apply the lotion with a cotton bud, twice a day, and blow on it to dry it. This treatment can take anything up to a few months to work.

I will update this web page as and when I receive more information and more experience.